You wouldn't expect headphones to need any special equipment to work. You plug them in, turn your device on, and music comes through. But what if you don't just want to listen to your music? What if you truly want to hear it? You'll need something to increase the level of signal that reaches your ears: a good headphone amp. These little devices will drive the signal from your music player and increase both its volume and detail. The good news is that you don't have to spend big to get one; whatever you're looking for, we can help. For more background information on headphone amps, see our comparison table and buying advice below the picks. And to complete your system, check out our list of the Best High-End Headphones and Best DACs.
 

Best Overall Headphone Amp

1. Schiit Audio Magni ($99)

Schiit Magni 3Category: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 1-600Ω
What We Like: The amp for everyone.
What We Don’t: Large wall wart, you’ll need a separate DAC.

You probably think we're insane. What are we doing, putting a $99 amp at the top of a list filled with four-figure monsters? But no headphone amp has impressed us more in the past year than the Magni. For beginners, it will be the thing that kicks your music up a notch, and gets you addicted to this hobby. For hardcore audiophiles, it's practically a throwaway purchase - one that will keep you coming back again and again. There are two variations to choose from, the Magni 3+ and Magni Heresy, both of which cost the same and feature different internal circuits. We prefer the 3+, which has slightly sweeter sound.

No matter what kind of headphones you own, be they $5,000 monsters or $10 earbuds, you need the Magni. It is dead-simple to operate, provides incredibly smooth sound, looks fantastic, and will power just about everything. Our only criticisms are the large, wall wart power supply and the fact that you'll need a separate DAC (see our Buying Advice below for more on this). If you want something a bit more powerful, the company makes plenty of other amps, but this is by far our top pick. However, if you want customization options, included DACs, or multiple connections, look further down the list...Read our in-depth review
See the Schiit Magni
 

Best Portable Headphone Amp

2. FiiO BTR5 ($120)

FiiO BTR5Category: Portable / Solid-State
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-150Ω
What We Like: Tiny design with a great range of features and clean sound.
What We Don't: Occasional lag issues.

If you’re looking for a great portable headphone amp, FiiO are very difficult to compete with. Their BTR range has set the standard for some time, and the newest model, the BTR5, is a powerhouse. It offers clean, balanced sound and a lightweight housing (less than two ounces) that make it far more portable than similar models like its bigger brother, the FiiO Q5. It has an excellent range of features, including Bluetooth 5.0, full app control, and one-touch pairing with your smartphone. Every feature we want in a portable amp is available here, and if you’re looking to boost the sound of your audio on the go, there’s simply no better option.

While the BTR5 has an excellent DAC chip, the ES9218, it does sometimes suffer from lag in Bluetooth mode. The time between pushing play on a song and hearing music can often be up to two seconds. This doesn’t occur all the time, but it happens often enough to be frustration. The Q5, and other wired headphone amps, do not have this problem. It’s worth noting that if you want to spend even less, you should look at other models in the line, like the BTR3 and BTR1K. Those have fewer features, but sound nearly as good at a significantly lower price.
See the FiiO BTR5
 

Best Solid-State Headphone Amp

3. Rupert Neve Designs RNHP ($499)

Rupert Neve Designs RNHPCategory: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-600Ω
What We Like: Incredible, life-changing sound.
What We Don't: Looks like something you'd see installed in a university physics lab.

The Rupert Neve Designs RNHP surprised the hell out of us. We couldn't believe how good it made our headphones sound, with audio quality that was both balanced and engaging. It really felt like it brought the best out of whatever we plugged into it. The sound was dripping with power, putting real weight behind the music. Then again, that's hardly surprising. Rupert Neve is a famed designer of mixing consoles for recording studios. This is his company's first headphone amp, and they've have knocked it out of the park in terms of sound quality. And the bang-for-the-buck ratio is just huge here - this sounds better than much-more expensive solid-state amps, like the Sony TA-ZH1ES.

However, the RNHP is about as simple an amp as you can get. It doesn't even have a gain switch. It's also really ugly. The industrial look may make the amp robust, but it's not exactly easy on the eyes. Elements like super-bright input lights don't help matters much, either. It also has no DAC – if you're looking for an amp in this price range that does, try the Burson Audio Play, below. The Play doesn't sound quite as good as the RNHP, but it is a one box solution. If sound quality is what you're after, though, and you don't mind unattractive looks, give the RNHP a go.
See the Rupert Neve Designs RNHP


Best Tube Headphone Amp

4. Monoprice Monolith Liquid Platinum ($640)

Monoprice Monolith Liquid PlatinumCategory: Desktop / Tube
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 3-300Ω
What We Like: Forgiving amp with great bass.
What We Don't: Undefined and woolly highs.

It's not the match we would have expected. Ultra-square manufacturer Monoprice teaming up with headphone impresario Alex Cavalli? OK, guys. But the result, the Monoprice Monolith Liquid Platinum, not only has an amazing name but terrific sound. The twin tubes deliver bass that really makes an impact, and the amp is surprisingly forgiving, bringing out the best - even in cheaper headphones. In terms of tube amps, the Liquid Platinum ticks all the boxes: warm sound, easily-swappable tubes, and modern features like balanced outputs.

If we have one criticism, it’s that in our opinion, the highs could be a little better. The mids and lows are gooey and warm and delicious, but it’s at the expense of the highs, which sometimes seem a touch brittle. Regardless, this amp remains an excellent if underappreciated sub-$1,000 product, and a lock for this list for the foreseeable. Be warned: there's no DAC, so you'll need to supply your own...Read our in-depth review
See the Monoprice Monolith Liquid Platinum
 

Best High-End Headphone Amp

5. Linear Tube Audio microZOTL MZ3 ($3,700)

Linear Tube Audio microZOTL MZ3Category: Desktop / Tube
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 12-600Ω
What We Like: Unbelievably pure and detailed sound, built-in speaker amplifier.
What We Don’t: Unsatisfying remote.

The Linear Tube Audio microZOTL MZ3 offers some of the purest, cleanest sound of any headphone amp we’ve ever heard. It’s not overly neutral or balanced, as you might get from something like the Sony TA-ZH1ES, but it presents music in breathtaking detail, to a level we don’t think we’ve heard from anything else on this list. The previous MZ2 was already one of our favorite amps, but the MZ3 kicks it up a notch. The housing and construction are outstanding, and the amp even provides enough power to function as a dedicated preamp for sensitive bookshelf speakers. Were it not for the fact that this headphone amp costs almost $4,000, we might seriously consider placing it in the top spot on this list.

Despite the great sound, the MZ3 isn’t exactly perfect. An amp at this price should come with more than just a reprogrammed Apple remote, which we found far too bare-bones for such a high-end model. And as good as the overall design of the MZ3 is, we do have to say that the front display is searingly bright to look at, making it difficult to navigate (although you can turn down the brightness using the Apple remote). The price will also put this amplifier out of reach for most people. But if you’re looking for a high-end amplifier, in our opinion, this is truly the best you can get. It’s a landmark amplifier, and we can’t see any models knocking it off this list anytime soon.
See the Linear Tube Audio microZOTL MZ3
 

Best of the Rest

6. Burson Audio Play ($549)

Burson PLAYCategory: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-300Ω
What We Like: Beginner? Advanced? Doesn’t matter - this is the amp for you.
What We Don’t: Bass could be a touch weightier.

What we like so much about the Burson Play is that it perfectly straddles the gap between being a device for headphone amp beginners and being one for pros. If you're just starting out in the world of headphone amps, then all you need to do is plug it in, switch it on, and enjoy the excellent sound quality. We also loved the sweet digital display. If you want something more in-depth, Burson provide a turnkey to open the unit up, allowing you to swap out the existing op-amps for ones of your choosing.

The Play is a fun amp with a creative concept. You can even buy it in various combinations from $299 to $549, which offer advanced internals and a remote, making it a great option for any budget. The sound is almost perfect, but we did find ourselves wanting more power in the low-end. Something worth noting is that Burson have since released the FUN and SWING amps, which are both very similar to the Play. But in all honesty, we don't think they dramatically improve on the Play. We suggest you stick with this one...Read our in-depth review
See the Burson Audio Play
 

7. FiiO Q5 ($300)

FiiO-Q5_Edited.jpgCategory: Portable / Solid State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-300Ω
What We Like: Superb sound quality, amp module swapping.
What We Don't: Too expensive for the target market.

FiiO make some truly excellent amps and DACs, and the Q5 is their latest culmination of everything they know. It's a slim, portable, silver slab that looks and sounds fantastic, and is fully Bluetooth-capable. Slide it in your pocket, connect to your headphones, and you're good to go.

The really neat trick it has are the amp modules. You can swap these out if you want to change up the sound - a process which not only works well, but is intuitive and fun. Add that to an excellent range of accessories, and a build quality that feels suitably premium. However, at $350, it's expensive for a portable amp. Especially when you compare it to the $129 Bluewave GET. We love the Q5, and think FiiO have made one hell of an amp, but we worry it's a little overpriced for what you get. FiiO Recently released an update to this amp, the Q5S, which adds dual DACs and slightly better sound, among a few other features. Honestly? Unless you’re desperate for those, we think you can stick with the original, which is $50 cheaper than the Q5S. The new update doesn’t offer enough to justify an upgrade. Read our in-depth review
See the FiiO Q5
 

8. JDS Labs The Element II ($399)

JDS Labs The Element IICategory: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: Up to 600Ω
What We Like: Added preamps, improved DAC.
What We Don't: The original may still be the best choice for some people.

The Element II from Missouri’s JDS Labs is a marked improvement from the original. It takes everything we loved – the great sound quality and intuitive design – and adds to it. The most requested feature from buyers of the original was a preamp section, and that’s been added here. This means that you can now use The Element II to control the volume of powered speakers, if you have them. There’s also an improved DAC, which clarifies and tightens the already excellent sound quality.

The original amp was at number 13 on this list, and the five spots The Element II jumps is a reflection of just how much work has gone into it. However, it’s worth noting that it does cost $50 more than the original, and if you aren’t in need of added preamps, then it’s possible to save the money and just buy the first Element. We also don’t think it beats models like the Rupert Neve RNHP in terms of sound quality. However, The Element II is an absolute gem of an amplifier and definitely earns its place in the top ten.
See the JDS Labs The Element II
 

9. Woo Audio WA11 Topaz ($1,399)

Woo Audio WA11 TopazCategory: Portable / Solid-State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 8-600Ω
What We Like: Stunning sound quality, truly premium experience.
What We Don't: No Bluetooth, not really suitable for in-ear headphones.

Woo Audio make some of the best headphone amps on earth. Their brilliant WA7 Fireflies was previously on this list, and remains one of the most beautiful tube amps ever made. But we think their newer WA11 Topaz is the one you should go for. It's an incredible amplifier: a battery-powered solid-state number, with gorgeous design and sound that oozes quality. As we said in our review: "The overall impression of the sound was of cold, clear sharpness - like a mouthful of freshly-fallen snow."

The WA11 Topaz works equally as well as a portable amp and a desktop one. Although we must note that there's no Bluetooth connection option, which is a strange omission. It's also not ideal if you primarily listen to in-ear headphones – it will handle them adequately, but the best experience will come with full size cans. Regardless of these issues, it remains one of the best headphone amplifiers we've ever tested. But if you want a solid state amp with a bit more grunt, try the Sony TA-ZH1ES, below...Read our in-depth review
See the Woo Audio WA11 Topaz
 

10. Feliks Elise MkII ($1,480*)

Feliks Elise Mk2Category: Desktop / Tube
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 32-600Ω
What We Like: One of the best tube amps available.
What We Don’t: Very heavy - and definitely not for everyone.

The Feliks Elise MkII is a beast, and one we only got to hear recently. The Elise MKII - a firm favorite among audiophiles, especially those who love swapping out tubes - is a monstrously heavy amplifier, with a big, traditional design and a bombastic sound. Its weight and awkward exterior may make it a little too much for beginners, or for those not willing to fuss with tubes, but oh, does this baby sound special. Huge, powerful bass, crisp highs, and glowing, gooey mids: the Elise has them all. We also adore the soundstage, which is as wide as the horizon.

Feliks make some spectacular amps, and in truth, we could have put plenty of their models on this list. But we think the Elise MkII offers the best value for money. If you want a classic headphone pairing, try the Focal Elear, which plays really well with the giant tubes straddling this amp. A fantastic - but somehow still underrated - amp classic. It may not be among the most accessible amplifiers on this list, or give you the plug and play joy of the RNHP, but it's truly exquisite...Read our in-depth review
*Price is subject to location.

See the Feliks Elise MkII
 

11. Focal Arche ($2,490)

Focal ArcheCategory: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-600Ω
What We Like: Unusual feature set matched with crystal-clear sound.
What We Don't: Those without Focal’s headphones may miss out on some functionality.

Focal Make some of the best headphones on the planet, so it’s surprising that it’s taken this long to do a headphone amp. Fortunately, the Arche is a good one. It’s a high-end amplifier that ranks as an excellent alternative to the Woo Audio WA11 Topaz and Linear Tube Audio microZOTL MZ3, especially since it can do a few things those amps can’t. It has specific amp presets for various Focal headphones like the Utopia and Elear, and it comes with an integrated headphone stand, which is super handy. We also appreciate the digital display screen on the front of the amp, which is simple to navigate.

If you don’t own any Focal headphones, however, we can’t recommend you buy this app stop the sound is excellent, but ultimately, the high price won’t be worth it if you can’t make use of half of the presets. If you do own any of those headphones, this amp is essential, but those who prefer headphones from other manufacturers may want to steer clear. In a way, this isn’t a negative: it’s clearly a deliberate choice by Focal, rather than a shortcoming. But it does restrict the Arche’s audience, and most people will benefit from an amp that casts a wider net—think the Woo Audio WA11 or the Linear Tube Audio microZOTL MZ3.
See the Focal Arche
 

12. Drop + THX AAA 789 ($320)

Drop + THX AAA 789Category: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-600Ω
What We Like: Probably the most transparent sound of any headphone amp. Ever.
What We Don't: Very boring design, somewhat unforgiving sound.

Headphone amp collaborations are the best. The AAA 789 is the result of a pairing between audio standards company THX and the consumer site Drop. Like the Monoprice Monolith Liquid Platinum, it’s an unusual connection that has produced something exquisite. In this case, an amplifier that has one goal, and one goal only: transparency. The AAA 789 ones to showcase your music exactly how it was recorded, with zero colouration. It absolutely achieves this, thanks to its linear bipolar circuitry. In terms of neutrality and clarity, we’d compare it to the far more expensive Benchmark HPA4. You’d go for this amplifier if you value the clarity and recording quality of your music above all else.

Unfortunately, that aspect is something of a double-edged sword. While the AAA 789 is unquestionably transparent, this approach means it is absolutely brutal when playing poorly recorded music, or low quality files. We also aren’t fans of the design. Compare it to the similarly priced Burson PLAY; both of them are minimalist, but the PLAY manages to be both striking and innovative. In our opinion, the AAA 789 is just dull. It’s an excellent amplifier, however, if slightly utilitarian.
See the Drop + THX AAA 789
 

13. iFi Audio Zen DAC ($130)

iFi Audio Zen DAC Category: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-600Ω
What We Like: Clean design matched with clean sound.
What We Don't: There’s no dedicated power supply.

There’s a huge amount of crossover between headphone amps and DACs. While the iFi Zen is technically labelled as a DAC, we think that, on balance, it is likely to be used as a dedicated headphone amplifier. It also happens to be a very good one— not quite as good as the Burson PLAY or Schiit Magni, but a worthy alternative nonetheless. We adore the design, which is clean and simple. That simplicity carries through to the sound. It’s not as aggressively neutral as the Drop + THX AAA 789, but is still balanced and clear.

There is no dedicated power supply, just an included USB cable. That’s fine, but we would have liked to see a wall plug included here, as transmitting both power and sound on a USB cable can sometimes cause audio issues. In the end, however, the biggest problem the Zen faces is that is that it simply doesn’t do enough to differentiate itself from other headphone amps. It’s a good alternative to other models here, but it’s not the first choice.
See the iFi Audio Zen DAC
 

14. Benchmark HPA4 ($2,995)

Benchmark HPA4Category: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 16-600Ω
What We Like: Lots of power, redesigned interface.
What We Don't: Less-expensive amps on this list are better.

The Benchmark HPA4 is a surprisingly enjoyable amp. Surprisingly, because Benchmark make some of the most complicated and finicky audio equipment available. But they started the HPA4 with a blank slate, and we think it paid off. The designer, Michael Siau, built the amp around a glorious touchscreen, which gives you everything you need in a single place. And with three watts into 32 ohms, the HPA 4 can power just about any pair of headphones. We tested this with about five or six different models, including the Focal Utopia and Meze Audio Empyrean.

The main issue we had with this headphone amp is that, while the HPA4 may be a lot of fun, it doesn't do anything particularly special, or deliver a better experience than other, slightly less expensive amps. The Woo Audio WA11 Topaz, for example, may not have a touchscreen, but we think using it is a much better experience. It's also far more versatile, in the sense that it's entirely portable. The HPA4 absolutely deserves a spot on this list, but it's not our first choice.
See the Benchmark HPA4
 

15. Manley Audio Absolute ($4,500)

Manley Audio AbsoluteCategory: Desktop / Tube
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 12-600Ω
What We Like: The best tube sound we’ve ever heard.
What We Don’t: Hideously expensive.

Can you overdose on tube sound? After hearing the Manley Audio Absolute, we’re pretty sure the answer is yes. It’s too much - way too much. The Absolute’s sound is the equivalent of a duck confit with foie gras, followed by molten chocolate pudding: a meal so rich and decadent that it leaves you groaning in both pain and pleasure. It ladles on the tubey goodness like a chef dumping butter into a sauce. The sound is absolutely extraordinary, and the Manley Audio Absolute has no problem driving just about any pair of headphones, including the most demanding planars. It also looks absolutely outstanding, and the range of tone controls mean it’s capable of surprising delicacy.

We had huge debates about whether or not to make the Absolute or the Feliks Elise MkII our pick for Best Tube Amp. In the end, the Feliks won, but only by a little. For all its qualities, the Manley Audio Absolute is ridiculously expensive, and will most likely be bought by only the most devoted and deep-pocketed of headphone fans. The high price tag puts it out of reach for most people, and although the Feliks is still quite expensive, it offers significantly better value. We adore the Manley Audio Absolute, and have seriously considered selling a kidney to own one, but that gorgeous tube sound comes at too high of a price for most.
See the Manley Audio Absolute
 

16. Sony TA-ZH1ES ($2,100)

Sony TA-ZH1ES Category: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 12-600Ω
What We Like: Crystal-clear sound, ease of operation, superb build quality.
What We Don’t: Expensive, sometimes hard to find.

The TA-ZH1ES is a big, intimidating, black box with a staggering range of connections, including a dedicated one for a Sony Walkman. In the time we've spent with it, we've been blown away by just how good it is. It's quite pricey, and although we link to Amazon here, it can sometimes be tricky to find on that site, but that's not enough to keep it from the top spot in this category.

The real draw here is the sound. Sony combine some incredible amp circuitry with a stellar DAC to produce audio that has almost zero distortion, and which is absolutely clinical in its representation. While this won't be fun for those who enjoy tube amps, it's excellent if you like solid-state sound. The company's DSEE tech upscales low resolution files, and the amplifier is fully DSD capable. Hearing a high resolution DSD album through this thing is an experience you just have to have. Is also, despite its hard-core nature, amazingly easy-to-use. This hybrid amplifier isn't going to be for everyone - and we think it's a touch too expensive, especially compared to the insane value of something like the Schiit - but it's definitely worth its place here...Read our in-depth review
See the Sony TA-ZH1ES
 

17. Mayflower Electronics ARC Mk2 ($270)

Mayflower Electronics ARC Mk2Category: Desktop / Solid-State
DAC: Yes
Recommended Headphone Impedance: Up to 600Ω
What We Like: Genuine improvements on the original.
What We Don't: Design is still very dull.

We liked the original version of Mayflower’s ARC: a headphone amp that, with its included mic, was a nod to the gaming world. But we didn’t love it enough to give it a place on this list. The ARC Mk2, however, incorporates some genuine improvements. In fact, it’s improved so much that we believe anyone buying a headphone amp should consider it. There’s now an input switch, meaning you no longer have to disconnect the headphones to do so. There’s also an analog input section, allowing you to directly connect your phone or tablet. This makes the ARC Mk2 far more versatile than the original, and it helps that Mayflower have fine tuned the existing elements, like the microphone quality. It’s even better this time around.

However, there’s no question that this is one dull looking amplifier. For $270, we expected something with just a little bit more pizzazz and flash. Technologically impressive it may be, but we aren’t fans of the industrial looks. It’s also worth noting that, if you aren’t interested in gaming, you’ll be paying for a microphone input here that you’re unlikely to use. It’s the same problem the Burson PLAY has, the key difference being that the PLAY offers truly incredible sound quality. As it is, the ARC Mk2 deserves a spot on this list, but there are some key aspects to be aware of before you buy.
See the Mayflower Electronics ARC Mk2


And For DIY Enthusiasts

18. Bottlehead Crack 1.1 OTL ($299)

Bottlehead Crack 1.1 OTLCategory: Desktop / Tube
DAC: No
Recommended Headphone Impedance: 3-600Ω
What We Like: Unreal clarity and definition - especially when paired with the right pair of headphones.
What We Don't: Not for those who dislike DIY!

Normally, we steer clear of DIY products on this site. The Bottlehead Crack is the exception. It has a legendary place within the headphone community, and with good reason. The Crack ships ready to be assembled, with detailed instructions, and only requires a soldering iron to build. It doesn't really deserve a spot on the main list - it's kind of in a class of its own - but if you have the adventurousness to build it, you'll unlock headphone perfection.

The classic pairing in the headphone world is a Bottlehead Crack with a pair of Sennheiser HD600s. The result is extraordinary, the kind of thing that will make your jaw hit the floor. Sumptuous detail, rich and engaging bass, and stunning dynamics - all of them a few solder beads away. If you can afford it, it's also well worth shelling out for the Speedball upgrade, which will jack the sound quality even more. That will take the total cost to around $414. Honestly? Whichever one you choose, the Crack is a fantastic project, and we think it's earned its place on this list.
See the Bottlehead Crack 1.1 OTL
 

New Headphone Amps Coming Soon

At a recent headphones show, we got a chance to test out the EarMen TR-Amp – a simple desktop amp/DAC combo (with additional battery power) from the guys behind the Auris Audio brand. It’s compatible with a huge range of file types, including Tidal’s MQA, and our initial listen sounded great. We left with a test unit and, while we want to spend a little more time with it before making a verdict, we think it’s going to slam its way onto this list. You can actually buy it right now, for the price of $249. That puts it in the same league as the Mayflower Electronics ARC Mk2 and JDS Labs The Element II.

We're also excited for the Rupert Neve Fidelice. This tremendous-sounding model is the successor to the high-ranked RNHP. We heard it at the recent Rocky Mountain Audio Fest and, although it’s not available for purchase yet, we think it’s going to be a fixture on this list for quite a long time. If you’re looking to spend roughly $1,000 on an amplifier, we suggest you wait until this one comes out.
 

Headphone Amps Comparison Table

Amps Price DAC* RHI** WPC*** Dimensions Weight
Schiit Audio Magni $99 No 1-600Ω 3 / 16Ω 5" x 3.5" x 1.25" 1lb
FiiO BTR5 $120 Yes 16-150Ω 0.8 / 32Ω 2.8" x 1.2" x 1.1" 1.6oz
Rupert Neve Designs RNHP $499 No 16-600Ω 0.23 / 16Ω 6.5" x 4.6" x 1.9" 3lbs
Monoprice MLP $640 No 3-300Ω 1.78 / 33Ω 8.8" x 8.5" x 2.0" 3.2lbs
LTA microZOTL MZ3 $3,700 No 12-600Ω 0.5 / 14Ω 10" x 8.5" x 4.75" 6.9lbs
Burson Audio Play $549 Yes 16-300Ω 2 / 16Ω 8.3” x 5.7” x 1.7” 4.4lbs
FiiO Q5 $300 Yes 16-300Ω 0.16 / 32Ω 4.9” x 2.5” x 0.6” 6.8oz
JDS Labs The Element II $399 Yes Up to 600Ω 1.1 / 32Ω 5.8” x 5.8” x 6.1” 1.13lbs
Woo Audio WA11 Topaz $1,399 Yes 8-600Ω 1.2 / 30Ω 5.1" x 4.8" x 4.8" 0.9lbs
Feliks Elise MkII $1,480**** No 32-600Ω 0.2 / 32Ω 12” x 8” x 6.7” 10.14lbs
Focal Arche $2,490 No 16-600Ω 1 / 32Ω 11.7" x 7.9" x 2.36" 10.25lbs
Drop + THX AAA 789 $320 No 16-600Ω 4 / 16Ω 8.3" x 9.1" x 2.2" 3.4lbs
iFi Audio Zen DAC $130 Yes 16-1600Ω 0.23 / 32Ω 4.6" x 3.9" x 1.18" 1.8lbs
Benchmark HPA4 $2,995 Yes 16-600Ω 3 / 32Ω 8.65" x 8.3" x 3.9" 8lbs
Manley Audio Absolute $4,500 No 12-600Ω 1 / 12Ω 11.5" x 8.2" x 5.5" 12lbs
Sony TA-ZH1ES $2,100 Yes 12-600Ω 1.2 / 32Ω 12.4” x 8.3” x 2.6” 9.7lbs
Mayflower ARC Mk2 $270 Yes Up to 600Ω 1 / 32Ω 9" x 6.5" x 4" 1lb
Bottlehead Crack 1.1 OTL $299 No 3-600Ω Unknown 11.25" x 7.25" x 3.5" 5.5lbs

*DAC = Digital-to-Analogue Converter
**RHI = Recommended Headphone Impedance
***WPC = Watts Per Channel
****Subject to Location

Woo-Audio-WA11-Topaz headphone amp | The Master Switch

Headphone Amps Buying Advice

Why Do I Need a Headphone Amp?

Here's the thing. All headphones need them. They're speakers - just small ones that go on your head - because they are speakers, they require amplification in order to get the sound to a level you can actually hear. The reason that most cans aren't actually used with external amps, and instead just plug straight into your iPhone/PC/Mac/iPad/whatever, is because these devices actually contain their own miniature amps. The reason you’d choose an external one is because these existing ones are a little bit under-powered, with stock components that aren’t really doing your music justice. They'll get the job done, but you'll get a much better results if you hand the amplification duties over to something purpose-built for it.

Manley Absolute headphone amp | The Master Switch

 

Most of these take the form of a box, designed to fit between your music source and your headphones. You simply plug your headphones in, then plug the amp into your computer or music player or turntable or whatever (maybe inserting a DAC along the way, which is something we’ll talk about below). In this way, the signal gets pushed through the amp before it reaches your ears, and the result, in theory at least, is warmer, richer, more powerful sound. It's not just the sound is louder; is that the sound will be better at high volume levels, with minimal distortion. (Important note: we don't actually recommend you listen to music at super high volume levels on your headphones, as this can really mess up your hearing, but that's the general idea). The components inside a headphone amp – which usually consist of some combination of valves, tubes and other analogue elements – help strengthen, or amplify, the signal to the miniature speakers on either side of your head. This strengthening colors the sound and emphasizes certain frequencies, which is why sound pushed through a headphone amp comes out sounding a hell of a lot better than it was before. (As a general rule, you won't need one of these if you have a pair of noise-canceling headphones, which have and require their own internal amps. Beyond that, we can't recommend buying one enough.)

The more expensive the pair of headphones, the more likely you are to need one of these. This is for two reasons. First, expensive headphones with excellent sound quality have a way of exposing the deficiencies of the audio source (for example, that compressed MP3 on your iPhone) and second, it is actually better for the headphones. And since we're talking about headphones, you're definitely going to need some - no point buying a great amp if you don't actually have cans to go with it, right? Try these high-end models.
 

Do More Expensive Amps Mean Better Sound?

Generally? Yes. The more money you pay, the more likely you are to get an amplifier with a set of components that treats your sound well. However: this is not a hard and fast rule. While we want you to have the best possible sound, we caution you against using price as a benchmark for picking your amplifier. Example: one of the best amps on this list, the Burson Audio PLAY, is almost a fifth of the price of something like the Sony TA-ZH1ES. On paper, the Sony is the better amp…but paper ain’t your ears, and we know which amp we’d save from a burning building.

While expensive amps do tend to have better sound, they are unlikely to be portable, and can be very bulky. They might also have fragile components, like tubes, that have a relatively high failure rate. Secondly, when you’re looking to buy, paying more means you might be paying for features you don’t need. If you aren’t interested in something like a bass boost function, and an amplifier includes it, then it may be worth your while looking elsewhere for a more simplified model.

Benchmark HPA4 headphone amp | The Master Switch

Headphone Amp Types: Tubes vs. Solid State vs. Hybrid

This refers to the inner circuitry of your chosen model. It’s actually quite a big decision that you need to make, although it’s not as intimidating as you might think. It’s all about the kind of sound you want.
 

Tubes

Or vacuum tubes, or valves (as they are variously called) are those glowing glass cylinders you see on the Bravo Audio V2 or the Woo Audio WA7. They form part of the audio circuitry by letting electrons burn off in a vacuum chamber. A perfect example of this kind of amp: the Feliks Elise. It's a big, ballsy amplifier that demands you fully immerse yourself in the intricacies of tubes, understanding what driver and power tubes do, why some tubes work while others won't, and how different tubes affect the sound. It's a demanding but rewarding amp, and we adored it. A tube amp can be identified by - and sorry if this sounds obvious - the giant glass tubes in or on top of it. There's usually a giant, boxy power supply at the back of the unit, too...

Tubes can be a huge amount of fun, and can give you a never-ending project that will leave you with a whole rack of versatile, gleaming tubes (hint: a little polystyrene works well for storing them - just stick them in pin-side down!) However, there are some caveats before you get involved. Firstly, any system with tubes is going to give your sound a rich, warm, analogue flavor that we guarantee you will find completely addictive. We know. We’ve been there. Secondly, any system with tubes is going to be temperamental. Tubes break, short-circuit, or just generally don’t perform as advertised. They will inevitably need to be replaced. This isn’t too common, but it’s a foible that you need to be aware of.

Thirdly, any system with tubes should allow you to perform the arcane practice of ‘tube rolling’, or quite literally replacing the tubes with different ones in order to alter the sound. You can spend hours, and a lot of money, doing this. We not going to go into the process of finding and choosing different tubes, mostly because that would entail us explaining the difference between Russian and Chinese tubes, and getting into the intricacies of the nomenclature, and neither you nor we have time for that. Bottom line: tubes rock.
 

Solid-State

These models don’t use tubes. Instead, they use more traditional circuitry to do the job. While they don’t have the warmth and character of tubes, they are known for being reliable, and for transmitting sound that is accurate, sharp and detailed. Perfect example: the FiiO BTR5, a pocket-sized amp that is fully solid-state.

We love the FiiO Q5, which is an excellent portable headphone amp | The Master Switch

Hybrid Systems

These use both of the above types of innards, relying on tubes to provide the color and electronics to provide the power. We can’t really advise you as to which of these three to pick, as it all comes down to personal choice. We used to have one of these on our list in the Schiit Mjolnir 2 - not a traditional hybrid, as it lets you stick in solid-state circuits in place of the tubes, but it's a good example nonetheless, and worth it if you want to experiment. We've replaced it with the Magni 3, which is a better amp overall.

One further point. We were kidding about the jargon here. Get anywhere into this particular product category, and you can be overwhelmed with it. Take for example the different classes of amplifiers. Class A? AB? D? G&H? Monoblock? Push-pull? Whuh? Fortunately, this is something you probably don’t need to be too aware of, at least when you’re just starting out. If you want to know more, there’s a great guide here.
 

Impedance and Wattage Explained

Whoo boy. OK. These aren’t too complicated to understand, but they do require a little bit of explanation. The short version: wattage is the amount of power an amplifier puts out, and impedance is the level of electrical resistance to that power. If an amp puts out 1 watts at 32 ohms, that means that a pair of headphones with an impedance of 32 ohms (Ω) will be taking one watt of power. The good news: wattage and impedance are much less important for headphones than they are for, say, full-sized speakers. Most amps will have a range of compatible headphone impedance, and as long as your particular headphones fit inside this range, you’re golden. That’s all there is to it.

We’ve got a full explainer here, if you need more detail. But if you don’t want to wade through it, you only really need to know the following. (And by the way, the explainer talks about speakers, but the content applies to headphones too). 

Focal Arche | The Master Switch

Headphones and Amp Matching Explained

As mentioned, all you need to do is look up the impedance of your headphones, which will be readily available on the spec sheet that comes with them, or on the manufacturer website. Then, look at the recommended headphone impedance stat for your chosen amp. We’ve actually listed these for the models above, where they’re given. As long as your headphone impedance falls in the given range, you’ll be fine. It’s true that some manufacturers don’t give this range. But to be honest, any of these amps will quite comfortably drive a pair of headphones in the 16-300 ohm range, and most contemporary headphones - with the exception of $10 earbuds - will play nice with most headphone amps.

In fact, we’re going to go a little further. There are those who advocate matching amps and headphones based on sensitivity, and how much gain you need to give the headphones to get them to an acceptable volume. We say: it isn’t worth it. All the amps on this list will be able to drive almost any decent pair of headphones to a suitable volume, and if you need it to go louder, you’re probably going to damage your hearing a little anyway. It’s far more tricky to match amps and speakers than it is to match amps and headphones, so our take is to simply pick one of each that you like, and see what they do together. Trust us, nothing is going to explode. And if you really just want a quick way to match amps to headphones, without worrying about the details, someone built a truly fantastic tool to do just that.

JDS Labs The Element 2 headphone amp | The Master Switch

DACs Explained

In short, a Digital-to-Analog Converter. Yes, you need one. Before sound goes from your computer or smart phone to your ears, it has to be converted from digital ones and zeros to actual audio you can hear, in the form of sound waves in the air. To do this, you need a DAC. Most players will already have this built in, which is why you can listen to music out of your computer speakers, but the quality isn't very good. We highly recommend offloading the task to an external DAC.

Quite a few of the models in this list will have one installed already, so you shouldn’t have to worry. Even if you do have to pick up a separate one, you can get some very good ones for not a lot of outlay. Here’s a full roundup of the best DACs on the market right now.

Linear Tube Audio MZ3 headphone amp | The Master Switch

Portable vs. Desktop Headphone Amps

Deciding whether to make your headphone amp portable, or whether to stick to a desktop version, is actually surprisingly complicated. Each has their own pros and cons, and it's worth taking a minute to think about what you want from a headphone amp.

The biggest advantage to portable headphone amps, like the $300 FiiO Q5 (full review here), is that they are portable - obviously. You can take them with you, and use them to augment your phone, or your DAP. They are usually lightweight - the Q5, above, is under 7oz. The downsides, however, need thinking about. You don't see a significant drop in power - we've never had an issue powering even demanding headphones with the Q5. But what you do see is a reduction in the number of inputs and outputs, and possibly audio formats as well. And of course, you'll need to worry about battery life. A portable amp is definitely worth considering if you have a pair of in-ear monitors (IEMs).

A desktop headphone amp, like the $640 Monoprice Monolith Liquid Platinum, sacrifices portability for functionality. You get a wealth of inputs, increased power, and a much more robust frame. You'll also almost never see portable tube amps, which means desktop amps are the ones you need to go for if you like swapping out tubes. There are some exceptions, like the Woo Audio WA8 Eclipse, which is one of the few portable tube amps available. But you'll pay dearly for the privilege - the Eclipse costs a staggering $1,800. Ironically, portable headphone amps almost always include a DAC, while desktop amps sometimes don't. Either way, you'll need to think about what you want from an amp before making a call on desktop or portable.

Rupert-Neve-Designs-RNHP headphone amp | The Master Switch

Headphone Amps vs. Stereo Amps 

The difference between these is relatively simple. Headphone amps power headphones, and stereo amps power speakers. Really, that’s kind of all there is to it. Except: not quite. While most headphone amps won’t be able to power speakers by themselves – they simply don’t have the output wattage that these bigger beasts require – there are several stereo amps that have headphone amps included. After all, if you have an amplifier that generates tons of power, it’s no hardship to simply insert a headphone jack and tell the interior switching circuitry to dial down the power a little bit. So, you know, you don’t end up exploding a pair of speakers that are right next to someone’s ears.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with listening to headphones this way. And if you find yourself switching between headphones and speakers, it can be a very easy option. But for our money, we think that dedicated headphone amplifiers provide better sound. The amp circuitry isn’t tacked on as an afterthought, which is the case with so many stereo amps these days. If you can afford to buy two separate amps, definitely do so. One trick that headphone amps do have is that they are often able to act as preamps, sending the audio signal to a power amplifier without boosting it further. That way, you get the advantage of their interior circuitry, while using the power amp to provide the grunt for your speakers.
 

3.5mm vs. 6.3mm Connections

Very obviously, you need to connect your headphones to your amp. To do this, you will commonly encounter three different types of ports. They all function the same way, with very subtle differences. 3.5mm is the most common. Any widely available headphone - think Apple, Beats, Monster, Skullcandy - will have this, a tiny plug that connects to most phones. Headphone amps, and high-end headphones, tend to favor 6.3mm connections, the jacks of which are bigger, chunkier and longer. The reason for this, in theory, is that the increased surface area of the 6.3mm jack allows for slightly finer connections, corrodes less easily, and is much harder to bend.

You can readily buy adapters that switch between the two, for no more than a few bucks at your local electronics store, and the differences between them are so minimal that you can consider them functionally identical.

Focal Arche | The Master Switch

Balanced vs. Unbalanced Connections

This is more a topic about cables than anything else, but given that you’re going to need to plug things in with your amplifier, it’s worth knowing the difference between balanced and unbalanced connections.

A cable that is unbalanced is one that has two wires inside its sheath: a ground wire, and a signal wire. The signal wire does the audio processing, sending the sound along to the next piece of equipment in the signal chain (your headphones, for example) while the ground wire act as a bodyguard, protecting it from any weird electronic interference. Your 6.3mm jack cable? Your RCA? Most standard headphone cables? Unbalanced.

Balanced cables, on the other hand, contain two signal wires along with the ground wire. While they do function the same way as unbalanced cables, in that the roles of each type of wire don’t change, they are built to work with the converters that they will be connected to at each end. Those converters – and we’re trying not to get overly technical here – rely on information in the signal wires to cancel out distortion. In theory, then, balanced cables mean your audio will have less distortion in it. XLR cables – the ones with the chunky, circular male/female connectors - and some 6.3mm cables are considered balanced. Plenty of amps on our list, including the Manley Audio Absolute, include these connections.

So on balance – ha ha – you’d prefer to go for balanced over unbalanced cables. Right? Well, maybe. Firstly, balanced cables, and the equipment they connect to, are always far more expensive then unbalanced ones. Secondly, the difference between the two is extremely subtle, really only becoming audibly apparent when cables stretch over long distances. Ultimately, this is a decision you make based on your budget and your listening set up, but don’t be too stressed-out if you can’t afford balanced connections.

The Sony TA-ZH1ES is an almost-perfect solid state amp | The Master Switch

Electrostatic Amps Explained

Electrostatic headphones, if you don't know, are a special (and usually very expensive) type of headphones that use force applied to an ultralight film to create the sound. The audio quality is predictably fantastic - but they require special amps to drive, and those amps are often heavyweight, audiophile-only gear that will mystify anybody not involved in the audio world. Also, they cost the earth.

We thought long and hard about whether to include models like the Sennheiser HE1/Orpheus, HiFiMAN Shangri-La and HeadAmp Blue Hawaii SE here - we did previously. But they're all electrostatics, and we think they belong on their own list, which is coming soon, along with a collection of Stax / Sonoma Acoustics / Koss cans - you know, the good stuff. For now, we're going to keep these to dedicated amps (rather than headphone/amp combos), and we're going to keep them traditional amps; in other words, ones which power dynamic or planar headphones.

Back To Our Headphone Amp Picks Back To Our Comparison Table

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